This month, we’re taking you behind the scenes of NYFW F/W 2018. From stunning nail looks by the creative teams at ORLY, amazing hair by Ted Gibson and Amika, to incredible makeup by the teams of Ingolt and Mustaev, the season’s looks were stunning.
We joined the L’Oréal Professional team backstage to watch them prep with the help of huge makeup and stylist teams. Kelli Jones, lead makeup artist on several shows including ExMermaid and Angel Brinks, and celebrity stylist Ted Gibson were two of the biggest stars backstage. As always, we were stunned by the dedicated teams who worked tirelessly throughout the day to create the stunning looks we saw gracing the runways show after show.
One of the most surprising things we noticed was (understandably) the use of skincare products in the makeup process. With models switching from look-to-look and the effects of New York’s air pollution and winter cold, many had more than a few skin issues. That’s why each model started with a Korean sheet mask. The team had dozens of boxes of MustaeV’s sheet masks scattered around the prep area. Kelli explained that they were mainly using the Mood Therapy Cooling Anger Mask to help with any redness, dryness or irritation caused by the mired of assaults on the model’s skin.
“MustaeV has four different face masks that I love,” explained Kelli, “you don’t even need to put on much makeup because it makes the skin glow and clears up any blemishes you may have. I suggest everyone use them, you can even sleep with them on. I use them every day.” On days when you’re not looking to add makeup after a mask, Kelli recommends the MustaeV Lustrous Cream Base. She used it on many of her clients to make the skin glow without the dryness of a highlighter powder.
The Secret Society Of ExMermaids
One of our favorite shows of the week was presented by The Secret Society of Ex Mermaids by Francki Michels, a NYC-based designer who studied at Parsons and St. Martins. Her collection reflects a fantastic and magical imagination that blends elements of high design, pop culture, and the uncanny for a completely unique and sometimes unsettling look. Her collection for Fall/Winter 18’ was inspired by the Old West and featured elements of vintage styling with aspects like graphic tees.
The look that Ted Gibson and Kelli Jones created for the models was based on the idea of an ethereal vintage mermaid with the flu. Sound interesting? We thought so! The look was composed of a teased Gibson Girl updo and a flushed, rosy pink face. While the flush pink was extremely dramatic under the florescent lights of the prep area, on the runway it translated to a gorgeous flush that had an everyday glamour.
Amika for Sandy Liang, Calvin Luo, and Ulla Johnson
Rocking the hair segment, the creative team at Amika produced some of the most
varied looks show-to-show that we saw. Their looks transitioned from Mod, to romantic,
to modern with such stunning execution and grace. All three are also surprisingly simple to achieve at home, which is one of the things we love about Amika.
For Sandy Liang, the team went with a modern beach wave style that had plenty of texture. This style is an everyday staple; they recommend adding a moisturizing product to keep the hair soft as many tousling products create a dry, crispy texture. The look for Calvin Luo was inspired by the vintage English Mod scene, big updos with vintage leanings were key.
For Ulla Johnson stylist Esther Langham created a simple, romantic braided updo that’s easy
Get the Look:
- Create a natural center part and dampen the hair.
- Apply Plus Size Perfect Body Mousse throughout the hair, including the hairline, for control.
- Roughly blow-dry the hair using The Accomplice Dryer to ensure the hair is completely dry and to encourage a soft aesthetic for the look. For finer hair, apply Un.Done Volume and Matte Texture Spray for added body and texture.
- Section the hair into 3 segments, with partings from the center part to behind the ear.
- Begin braiding in an overhand style along the front hairline to above the ear. Complete the braid through the ends and secure with an elastic.
- When both sides are complete, separate the back into 3 sections and create classic braids. To keep the ends clean and to prevent flyaways, apply Fluxus Touchable Hairspray as needed.
- Once complete, fold the braids and secure to the back of the head. Next, pin the side section braids around the perimeter of the hairline and around the shape on the back of the head.
- To finish the style, gently soften the side section braids by using your fingers until the desired softness is reached.
ORLY for Sandy Liang, Adam Selman, and Maryam Nassir Zadeh
Bright, bold, and geometric styles graced the nails of the lucky models who worked with Holly Falcone, ambassador for ORLY. With looks inspired by a variety of sources, each look is a unique style that we’re looking forward to seeing replicated. One of the most important aspects was the variety; finishes ranged from glitter to metallic to flat with a variety of simple and ornate styles. We’re sharing all of our favorites with insight from Holly Falcone as to her inspiration for each.
The look for Maryam Nassir Zedeh was less inspired by specific images and more inspired by the bright colors and playful nature of the designer. Falcone’s look for Zadeh was the most complicated of the group, mixing precise line work, multiple shades, and a bold glitter for a style that complimented the graphic makeup look and minimalistic designs.
Sandy Liang: “Sandy Liang’s Fall 2018 look were inspired by Hallie’s nails in “The Parent Trap.” The Parent Trap is a cult movie that also served as the first fashion and beauty inspiration for teens in 1998. Hallie’s metallic blue nails with a hint of green are prominent in every iconic scene. One of Sandys many talents is translating childhood memories into inspiration for her collections and I love that she is honoring that right down to the nails. We created this look by mixing two of my favorite ORLY shades Royal Navy and It’s Up To Blue.”
Adam Selman: “The glitter pink look for the Adam Selman fashion show was inspired by Tonya Hardings’ over-the-top costumes that were sparkling right down to her long nails, which were always featured prominently while performing. We had fun creating a modern take on the look by using two ORLY polishes in Miss Conduct and Love My Nails that was fun, but also felt more modern than a traditional sparkly polish.” – Holly Falcone